World War II in Besançon, France
The Museum of Deportation and Transportation
Nazi occupation, resistance, executions in the Citadelle, the Vichy regime, anti-Jewish laws, the Free French and letters from soldiers can be found in this exhibition.
It’s the simple, mundane things that can often stick in your throat, such as the last letter of 19-year-old Vital Deray. “I leave my camera to my brother Michel whom I loved very much and my watch to my dear, kind Daddy who wasn’t always strict enough with me.”
Vital was one of many of the young men from the region who were not prepared to lie down and accept the Nazi occupation during the second world war. The museum, inside the citadel, is dedicated to those like him and their often brutal stories.
Another missive comes from a 16-year-old, Henri Fartet, who was executed for his resistance activities within the Citadel on July 1943.
“The soldiers are coming to get me… Judging from my writing, you might think my hand’s trembling, but it’s not. I’m just using a short pencil. I’m not afraid of death: I have an extremely clear conscience. But it is hard to die… A thousand kisses. Long live France.”
When put in contrast to some of the other letters on display, from collaborators willingly denouncing anyone who may possibly express an interest in getting rid of the Germans, it’s heart-breaking.
Just in case anyone was under any illusion, this museum within the walls of the citadel shows conclusively that life in occupied France wasn’t much fun. The scope is impressive, ranging from the global to the personal, as it tells how the French adapted to wartime.
It leaves you under no illusion as to how odious the Vichy regime, which bowed down to every German whim in an instant, was. They drew up anti-Jewish laws, sent French workers to Germany to help maintain the war machine, and destroyed the economy by paying the Nazis a fortune in “occupation expenses”.
But if it was tough in the areas under Vichy control, then it was even worse in places such as Besançon that were under the direct thumb of Hitler’s troops. With pretty ropy-looking carrots not working, they resorted to sticks and treatment of anyone not complying unfailingly was brutal. Those planning to join the resistance were told that, if caught, they would be shot, as would all male members of their family, while female relatives would be sentenced to hard labour.
Several personal items are on display, from badges to faked documents, but the bigger story is also covered. The exhibitions take us through Charles De Gaulle’s Free French, as well as the horrific death camps that many inhabitants of the region were condemned to. It’s difficult to leave without feeling somewhat shaken.
Besançon is approximately two-and-a-half hours on the train from Paris, although the closest international airport is in Geneva, Switzerland.
La Citadelle (+33 3 8187 8333, www.citadelle.com) is open all year apart from Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. However, the museums close on some days in the winter. Entrance costs EUR7.20.
