Visiting Provence During the Autumn

The Smells, Sights and Sounds as the Season Changes in the Vaucluse

Nov 3, 2009

A heavy morning dew. The smell of wood smoke and damp leaves hanging in the air and a curl of wood smoke from stone chimneys. Autumn has arrived in the Luberon.

Long snaking lines of people clog the pharmacies and spill out onto the pavements at this time of year. They may come from different walks of life but they all have one thing in common; the grubby bags and baskets that they carry. Or rather what's in those bags - les champignons, mushrooms, the forest fruits that mark a change in the season. But what are these people waiting for?

The brightly illustrated posters of mushrooms and toadstools that appear in the pharmacies at the end of September give a clue to the service provided free of charge, by local pharmacies. The pharmacists check fungi that is brought to them for safety and edibility.

Meanwhile, the vineyards, which have been relatively quiet through the hot summer months, become a hive of activity as September progresses. Visitors to the area at this time of year can't fail to notice groups of pickers, their heads bobbing up and down, work their way along the straight lines of vines which are heavy with ripened grapes.

Leisurely sight-seers, who have choked the roads through July and August, are replaced by chugging tractors, their trailers overflowing the the fruits of the pickers' labour, making their numerous journeys from field to cave, filling the air with the heady aroma of fermenting grapes.

Once the grapes have been gathered, the greenery of the vines is replaced by yellowing leaves, through the stunning spectrum to orange and red which provides a magnificent backdrop against the clear provençal blue skies, through October to November.

After the grape harvest it's time to pick the olives. Olive oil mills all over the Luberon open their doors from the middle of November and as autumn turns to winter the vineyards once again teem with activity. It's time for the vignerons to prepare their vines for the coming winter.

Average Autumn Temperatures in the Luberon, Provence

The autumn weather in Provence tends to start gently. The temperatures during September are comfortable after the heavy heat of August, although the change in airstream can cause some storms. Into the beginning of October the days are warm enough to do some gardening in shorts and enjoy meals outside, while cool enough in the evenings to light the fire. But when the Mistral arrives it saps the remaining warmth from the sun and marks a change from flip flops to socks and shoes. Although, as the temperature chart below shows, Provence remains warmer than the more northern parts of France:

The size and frequency of the local markets start to reduce during the autumn. More tourist based ones like Gordes and Roussillon all but finish by November, so visitors are likely to head to the larger towns like Apt and Cavaillon where the weekly display of market stalls continues. At this time of year the market stalls groan under the weight of the seasonal produce - grapes, mushrooms, pumpkins, chestnuts, walnuts and olives. November brings the truffle season. It's first appearance at the market in Carpentras calls for a formal fête and 'swearing in' by local dignitaries.

As well as the markets there are numerous events to take advantage of in the Luberon during September and October. They include:

October Events in the Luberon, Provence

There are two bank holidays, or jours de fêtes, in France during November. All Saints Day, Toussaint, on 1st November and Armistice (Victory 1918) on 11th November.

There are daily flights to Marseille throughout the year - the main flight providers from the UK are - Easyjet, Ryanair and British Airways.

Travelling to the Luberon in Autumn by Air and by Train

The TGV runs regular services from Avignon and Aix-en-Provence to London St Pancras, via Lille or Paris. For details check the official TGV website at TGV.com.

UK Flight Destinations from Avignon Airport, Provence

Seasonal flights from a number of UK destinations are avaliable to Avignon Caumont Airport. They are - Edinburgh, Exeter, Leeds/Bradford and Southampton. Due to the seasonality of these flights it is advisable to check the websites of the two service providers, Flybe.com and Jet2.com, for details and flight timetables.

The copyright of the article Visiting Provence During the Autumn in France Travel is owned by Heidi Brand. Permission to republish Visiting Provence During the Autumn in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.