Visit the Medieval Village of Goult, Provence

An Historical Tour of one of the Best Kept Secrets of the Luberon

Mar 9, 2009

A 40 minute drive from Avignon towards Apt, Goult doesn't get as much attention in the guide books as other hilltop villages which is a shame, because it's a real gem.

The commune's public declaration of its commitment to the protection of the village and its history is evident. Vistors can't help but be captivated by the honey-coloured buildings and the impressive 13th century Chateau de Goult, with its watch-towers that loom over the village. But there's more to Goult, much more.

Tree-Lined SquaresAt the bottom of the village is the grand tree-lined Place de la Liberation. Setting for the weekly Monday market, it is dominated by the 12th century Romanesque church of Saint Sebastien. Noted for its gothic vaulted roof and ornamental canopy it remains at the centre of village life and the focus of events during religious holidays. In the centre of the Place stands a memorial to the children of Goult who died during the First World War. It is also dedicated to villagers killed in the Second World War, either through direct fighting, the resistance or deportation.

Layered Rock RampartsAlmost immediately after leaving Place de la Liberation, the road begins to narrow and climb. The ancient honey-coloured and ochre washed houses seem to bend to greet visitors as they walk by. The Rue-du Jeu de Paume leads up to the apex of the village. As this road twists the layered rock ramparts signal the old fortified village. This network of winding alley-ways provides a close-up of the rock walls that reach high up into the blue sky. With buildings that literally seem to sprout from the rock, the old village includes an eye-catching gateway, La Porte l'Ourme. Once the principle entrance to the fortified village, this gateway is curious in that the internal façade is Roman and the external is Gothic.

Jerusalem WindmillStanding high above the ramparts and crowning the entire village of Goult is the Jerusalem Windmill. Windmills were first mentioned in Provence in 1180 and this one was mentioned for the first time in records dating back to 1750. Bought as a ruin by l'Institut Géographie National in 1947 it was made into a Centre of Education for Astronomy and it's easy to see why. Its commanding position above the Calavon River Valley is a perfect spot to marvel at the panoramic view of the neighbouring hilltop villages of Bonnieux, Lacoste and Oppède and Mount Ventoux which, as always in this part of Provence, dominates the skyline. In 1996 the mill was bought by the commune who spent the next two years restoring it.

Cultivated TerracesA ten minute walk from the windmill are the Conservatoire des Terrasses, or cultivated terraces. Restored in 1988 these stone wall terraces, covering five hectares, combine the key elements traditonal to this part of France - water, soil and stone. A cool spot in the summer, it's sheltered from the infamous Mistral in the winter. Borries, dry stone huts, are an interesting find amongst the olive and almond trees.

There is much more to see in Goult and to get the most from a visit here the commune have provided a 'walking tour' which comprises a map of the 19 key sites in and around the village with snippets of historical information about each one. The information is in French, so of limited help to non-French speakers, but the map is useful in identifying the key sites and making sure you don't miss anything.

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