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For most visitors the closeness of the front lines brings an emotional reaction which is only reinforced by visiting the Canadian War memorial on Hill 145.
It is staggering how close the opposing trenches were and it brings the realisation that the opposing troops in the forward trenches would be able to hear each other’s conversation. The front lines were barely fifty yards apart. There are still pock marks, now softened by time, from the shells and large craters from the mines that were tunnelled under the enemy lines. TunnelsGuided tours of the tunnels are available and emotions are heightened further when the deeper tunnels and remaining underground accommodation are visited. Miles of tunnels were created by both armies for moving materiel, men to the front line and placing mines under their enemy's positions. Both sides were digging tunnels within feet and in each other’s hearing. They often broke through and fought hand to hand in the confines and dark of each other’s tunnels. Artillery shells could penetrate metres through the soft chalk and explode in the tunnels – an unexploded one remains in the roof of the publicly accessible tunnels. The thought of those young men facing such horrors chills the bones. There are highly charged descriptions in Sebastian Faulkes novel Birdsong of similar hand to hand fighting, mines and collapsed tunnels; having read it the experience of both and visit was heightened. Battle of Vimy RidgeThe Battle of Vimy Ridge, as the Second Battle of Arras was known to the predominately Canadian Troops, was a breakthrough as for the first time in seventeen months real territorial gains were made. This was due to innovative planning and rehearsal that gave each platoon a clear job to do and empowered them to do it. But it still resulted in the death of 3,598 Canadian troops and many more wounded. Canadian War MemorialThe scale of loss becomes very real on seeing the names of the dead covering the walls of the Canadian War Memoria. It is of five Canadian memorials in France and one of only two Canadian National Historic Sites outside Canada (the other is Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial also in France on the Somme). The monument is dramatically set right on the ridge of Hill 145 in a huge area of well tended grass with its twin spires visible for miles across the plain of Artois. A place of serenity and solemnity it generates a significant emotional reaction. On a fine day it is very striking and very different from the often wet, muddy and frightening days that the troops, many still in their teens, would have faced on Vimy Ridge during the months of stalemate. The thought that many of those troops were the same age as today’s high school and college students, like our friend and children, is very sobering. Most people naturally take a few moments to reflect on the sacrifice of so many so far from home. It is very noticeable how many people want to be on their own with their thoughts in that place. Visitor CentreThere is a nearby visitor and interpretive centre which chronicles the events at Vimy Ridge and the surrounding area. A Lighter DiversionThe nearest town of any significance is Arras which was all but destroyed during the First World War. It had just escaped being overrun by the German army but that left it on the front line and it was heavily bombarded throughout most of the war. Arras was rebuilt between the wars and is now a pretty and historic town with good restaurants and shops. It makes a good base for visiting Vimy Rdge and a relaxing diversion after the emotion of the battlefields.
The copyright of the article Battle of Arras Remembered in France Travel is owned by Martin P Wilson. Permission to republish Battle of Arras Remembered in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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