The Perched Villages of France
These Ancient Towns Lie High in the Luberon Mountains in Provence
The traveler to the fabled land of sun and color in southern France may miss storied villages from ancient past. The short detour from Avignon is a must see.
Winding through the ancient stone streets of France's villages perches (perched villages) in Provence reminds travelers that they are part of an ongoing history, an ongoing narrative. After all, travelers have lived in these villages for two thousand years and the stone buildings and ruins whisper the voices of the past. Many tourists seem oblivious to those voices as they ramble through passageways and small shops carved out of stone in pursuit of a good deal or tourist bargain. Yet others seem entranced by the vestiges of history left by people not much different from themselves, now long gone.
For many the thought of Paris encompasses France and the City of Lights certainly remains one of the most romantic cities in the world. Yet Paris is far north and cold and rainy for much of the winter. For this reason Impressionist painters like Gauguin, Van Gogh, Cezanne, and Renoir, came south to Provence for the bright sun, warmth, and brilliant colors.
The Arrival at Avignon, Gateway to the Luberon
The Luberon Mountain Range lies to the east of Avignon and runs for roughly 30 miles. Some of the northern parts are more of an Alpine nature than Mediterranean, with oak, beech, and maple trees along with flowers such as cowslips and buttercups. Nevertheless, the summer can get very hot and vines abound so be careful when hiking.
In the 19th century the trip for Parisians was made by carriage and took days. Later in the century the train became available. Nowadays a traveler can take the TGV (Trains de Gran Vitesse), a bullet train from Paris to Avignon and beyond in rapid time. The trip from Paris to Avignon is about 2 1/2 hours, once a six hour train ride. Regular shuttles link the TGV train station in Avignon (1.2 km outside the city) with the city center.
If you decide to rent a car in Avignon, make sure you park outside the city walls and do not attempt to drive into the city center as the traffic and one-way streets pose formidable challenges for any driver. The best place to park is near Pont Daladier, on the west side of the city, just outside the walls.
What to Bring for the Day in the Perched Villages
The villages are in close proximity to one another so it is possible to visit six or seven easily in one day. They lie about 35 km (20 miles east of Avignon) on narrow two lane roads with hardly any gas stations in the vicinity. Pick up some fresh fruit, vegetables, wine, and cheese locally before heading out. Also, do not forget bottled water and some gasoline for emergencies. Depending on when you travel, the weather, especially in the summer, can get quite hot.
Some Representative Perched Villages
Gordes, Lacoste, Roussillon, Bonnieux, and Menerbes are the best known of the villages. The reason for the hilltop locations was due to fortification against invaders in the Middle Ages. The remains of castles dot the terrain and each village seems to have either a castle or church with turret or tower visible from the approach below.
Gordes is one of the more touristy villages, a favorite with film directors, artists, painters and Parisiens. It can get crowded with tour groups and the prices can get expensive. However the approach up the winding road at sunset is beautiful and the village is visible from the road for miles.
Lacoste and its chateau can be seen from other villages but is a smaller, less frequented stopover. Its claim to fame stems from its famous resident, the Marquis de Sade, who lived there in a castle in the 1770s.
Roussillon is unique and often called the Red Village due to the reddish stone mined from the ochre quarries in the distance. Apparently ochre provides a range of colors and does not fade in sunlight, ranging from pale yellow to blood red. Entering Roussillon, the buildings seem to glow and during dawn and dusk, the sunlight provides colorful nuances.
Bonnieux is another steep village from where you can see at least three other villages. Menerbes has become famous for the Peter Mayle book, A Year in Provence.
The perched villages of Provence await the inquisitive traveler and living and breathing its history adds more life than merely reading about it. Enjoy.
