The Legacy of Vincent Van Gogh
Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, Shelter of the Troubled Painter, Lies Waiting
Legendary Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh spent a year of his short life in the Asylum of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole near the town of Saint-Remy-de-Provence, France.
In May 1889, after an apparent acute attack of epilepsy, the famous Dutch painter, Vincent Van Gogh committed himself to an asylum in the French Provencal town of Saint Remy-de-Provence. The name of the asylum was St. Paul-de-Mausole and the site, now a hospital, remains on the outskirts of town. St. Paul-de-Mausole is rather easy to miss when driving out of town but any travellers interested in Van Gogh's life and Impressionist art in general, must see this site.
Saint Remy-de-Provence, France
This quaint and picturesque town dates back to Roman times and is surrounded by the vestiges of a 14th century circular wall and ancient buildings. The town is situated on the plains on the northern part of the Alpilles mountain range, some 20 km (12 miles) south of Avignon, another walled city. It was in Saint Remy where Van Gogh painted Starry Night, and the 16th century medieval seer, Nostradamus, was born.
St. Remy is a lively town with a good selection of restaurants and hotels for the traveller. The famed sunflower motif of Van Gogh shows up in local shops. Wednesday is the major market day and invites crowds which in itself, is not a bad experience since the traveller gets a fine sense of Provencal culture. The town is also known for the antique site of Glanum, south of town. Glanum was a Greek city, lying underneath a Roman city later built. Some exquisite Roman artifacts, including a mausoleum and a Roman arch still stand.
Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
When Van Gogh committed himself in 1889 for one year, Saint-Paul-de-Mausole was an asylum but is now a hospital clinic. Van Gogh seemed to adapt to a quiet, peaceful lifestyle among cloisters, gardens, and fields of flower all enveloped by the clear Provencal sun. Nuns and nurses were his companions during this year and the period became one of great productivity for him. He painted more than 150 canvases and several drawings during his stay at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole. Two of his more notable works, Starry Night, and Self-Portrait, were done during this time period also.
The grounds themselves are beautiful, surrounded by high hedges and plane trees. Copies of Van Gogh's works line the tiled walls along with a metal statue of Van Gogh himself, welcoming visitors. The cloisters leading up to Van Gogh's room (a facsimile..the real room is in another building closed off to the public) are beautiful with archways, hedges, and bright flowers in the courtyard.
The winding staircase brings the visitor up to the Van Gogh room which is stark, containing only a bed, a thin mattress, sink, and small table. Bars impede a full view through the sole window to the garden of lavender in the back of the hospital. Interesting relics from Van Gogh's time, especially the medical equipment, are on this upper floor. Make sure to visit the backyard where Van Gogh painted many of his flower scenes. If you are lucky, few tourists will be on site, unlike the thousands who show up for Van Gogh's art exhibitions throughout the world. A palpable serenity prevails, a calm understanding of the great display of artistic genius that this site shelters.
So if you are a traveller and happen to be up north of Paris, visit Monet's home at Giverney. Yet if your path travels south, the trip to Saint-Paul-de-Mausole in the town of Saint Remy-de-Provence will be well worth the time, especially for art lovers.
Opening Times for Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
- from 11/01 to 03/31: open from 11 am to 5 pm every day.
- from 04/01 to 10/31: open from 9:30 am to 7 pm every day
- Price: 3,20 euros, free for children under 12
