Nestling at the convergence of three valleys in the mountains of the Pyrenees, Luz-Saint-Sauveur first drew visitors as a spa resort. But things have moved on and many of the activities on offer now are anything but relaxing.
There was a time when Luz-Saint-Sauveur’s days looked numbered. Thanks to developments in modern medicines and treatments, the popularity of spas across France waned and the town suffered. But Luz quickly reinvented itself, creating a year round playground for outdoor activity and adventure.
The town sits on the cross-Pyrenees GR10 long distance path and is a popular centre for hikers exploring the Pyrenees National Park. Close at hand is the famous Cirque de Gavernie. It is a staggering 1400 metres from top to bottom and boasts Europe’s longest waterfall, the Grande Cascade. You can walk in or hire a mule as far as the Hôtellerie du Cirque.
The neighbouring Cirque de Troumouse and Cirque d’Estaube are equally inspiring. The latter is a great place to escape the crowds, as the twisting access road is too tortuous even for French coach drivers to attempt. From the Lac des Gloriettes a path climbs to the Pont d’Estaubé. Continue on and you may see marmots, large furry mountain rodents reintroduced to the Pyrenees in the 1950s.
There are plenty of other day hikes in the area, the majority well signposted. One of the best is the climb to the Brèche de Roland, a near vertical gap in the rock measuring 100 metres by 60 metres. The route entails a scramble up a waterfall and a hike over a glacier. For those seeking higher-level routes, marked trails lead into the mountains and guides can be hired in Luz.
For overnight stays, refuges are dotted around the peaks. These range from large staffed huts where meals are served to smaller, more basic cabins. The manned refuges, which are open from July to September, cost between 9 euros and 13.50 euros a night. Add 13 euros if you want a meal, although you can take your own grub.
Officially wild camping is forbidden in the park, but in practice it is fine to pitch a small tent after nightfall, provided it is taken down by daybreak and is no less than an hour’s walk from the nearest road.
The best routes for mountain bikers are found around Barèges, five miles from Luz on the road to the Col du Tourmalet, the highest driveable pass in the French Pyrenees. It is a regular on the Tour de France and offers a worthy challenge for all cyclists, involving 1400 metres of ascent at an average gradient of 8%.
Barèges also offers parapenting with access to high-level launch sites provided by the winter ski chairlifts. Tuition and equipment is available at the Centre Ecole Regionale des Pyrènèes.
Back in Luz, Luz Aventure is the place to go if you want to try adrenalin pumping sports like canyoning or whitewater rafting. At Parcours Aventures there are tree top trails for kids and adults, a zip slide over the river and a via ferrata course that climbs below the Pont Napolèon.
After all this adventure you may decide a reviving visit to one of the spas is just what the doctor ordered. Treatments start at 10 Euros and should have you fighting fit again in no time.