The Ancient Village of Bonnieux, Provence
Historical, Fortified Hilltop Village in the Heart of the Luberon
Apr 29, 2009
As early as 972 Bonnieux had a fortress and walled ramparts protecting the villagers from invaders. During the fourteenth century the inhabitants of the village took refuge in the castle and the church at Castellas, at the top of the village, which belonged to the powerful Agoult family, whose fortified chateau dominates the neighbouring village of Goult.
Romanesque 'Old Church' and Nineteenth Century 'New Church.
The 'old church' at the top of the village is accessed from the Rue Republique, by 86 steps. The steep climb to 425metres (1,394ft) above sea level is enriched by a magnificent view of the surrounding hilltop villages of Lacoste and Roussillon, and right across the Calavon Valley to Mount Ventoux.
Half Roman and half Gothic it includes the Chapel of Saint Saviour which was built in the twelfth century by the Knights Templar when Bonniuex was a command of the Templar until 1312.
The church has been a listed historical building since 1980 and is now only used for the occassional wedding and summer concerts.
As the village expanded, the aging population were unable to climb up to the 'old church.' So, in 1856 the decision to build a 'new church' at the bottom of the village was made.
Construction was paid for by the parishioners and wasn't quick.
Overseen by two notable, local master masons, the first stone was laid on 15th November 1866. Blessed by the father of the parish on 24th April 1870, it was over fifty years after the initial decision that it become the parish church on 1st January 1907.
Village Built on Three Levels
All the levels of Bonnieux are accessible via a looping main road, winding alleyways or a set of steep steps, but whatever the route a breathtaking view is a constant companion.
There's a wide selection of antique/gifts shops, restaurants and cafés on each level; including at the bottom of the village, the Café Clerici. Owned and run by at least three generations of the Clerici family it was mentioned in Peter Mayle's book, A Year in Provence.
Ornate Stone Fountains
Visitors can't fail to hear the trickle of water from the ornamental fountains dotted around the village. Recently restored they are maintained by a dedicated, local association and certainly add to the ambience of this provencal village.
Almost at the top of Bonnieux is the bakery museum, or le musée de la Boulangerie. Created in 1983 it charts the history of bread and baking. Various exhibits of ancient equipment, tools and farm equipment enhance this interesting and informative museum.
Just outside the village, along the D149 towards the roman town of Apt is le Pont Julien.
Over 2,000 years old this Roman bridge is one of the most ancient preserved monuments in Provence.
In the other direction, from the top of the village along the D36 towards Lourmarin is the Cedar Forest, or the Foret des Cedres; a vast man-made plantation with spectacular views across the Calavon and Durance valleys, complete with recently restored Borie village. It is popular with walkers and local families.
Twentieth Century Earthquake
On the evening of the 11th June 1909 an earthquake, its epicentre at Rognes, endangered Bonnieux.
Fortunately the majority of the ancient buildings remained undamaged but the resulting cracks in the 'new church' are still visible today.
Market day in Bonnieux is Friday and every year on Easter Sunday and Monday the village hosts a large pottery market.
For more information about Bonnieux contact the tourist office.
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