Saint Denis with the Stade de France will be hosting the most important matches in this Rugby World Cup, including the final on 20th October 2007.
You could just hop off the metro at Stade de France and never visit Saint-Denis – but that would be a shame. You’d miss a unique chance to step back into the Middle Ages. If instead of getting off metro line 13 at Saint Denis – Porte de France, you stay on the train as far as the Saint-Denis Basilique station, you’ll be able to pay your respects to the Kings of France. Almost all of them are buried in the Gothic basilica of Saint Denis.
Saint Denis was beheaded here under the Romans, and a Merovingian cemetery grew up around his body. But while the basilica still includes some fine work from the reign of Charlemagne, down in the crypt, most of what you’ll see today dates from the Gothic period. When Abbot Suger, regent of France, replaced the west end and the choir in the 1140s, he created the first truly Gothic church in Europe. His remarkable work still survives, despite later alterations. You can even see a few panels of the original stained glass (though a number of them are currently being restored).
The real draw of the basilica though is the fine set of royal tombs, dating from the thirteenth century all the way to the Renaissance. There are some stunning works of art such as the fine Renaissance tomb of Francois I, showing military scenes as well as the effigies of the King and Queen. (Gruesomely, they are shown twice – on top of the canopy as they were in life, superbly dressed, kneeling in prayer, and below it as a pair of naked corpses, reminders that we too will die.) And if you’re a fan of the macabre you should seek out the remains of Louis XVII – a boy king who was never crowned, son of Louix XVI who met his end on the guillotine. His heart, a dried up scrap of leathery tissue in a little glass urn, is now to be seen in the crypt.
The basilica is Saint Denis’ great tourist draw. The rest of the town is mainly modern. It’s seen its fair share of social troubles, too – unemployment is high in this quarter of Paris. But it’s not without interest; a huge market, many businesses catering for the North African and West African communities, and the unique ‘miel beton’ -which translates as concrete honey! This honey is produced by bees kept on the roof of the town hall. Apparently, they get better nectar from Saint Denis’ back gardens than most countryside bees can find in the pesticide-laden fields. You can buy it at the tourist office – which will also show you how to walk from Saint-Denis to the Stade de France, if you’re game for a half hour hike.
Alternatively, you could spend a day shopping. Head for the huge Saint-Ouen antiques market – also near metro line 13 stations, Garibaldi or Mairie de Saint-Ouen, though it’s a bit of a hike from the metro. The Saint-Ouen market is open from ten in the morning till six in the evening, weekends and Mondays.
The market is huge. There are a dozen or so indoor markets, some specialising in particular items such as vintage clothing, others more general. There’s also a street market where you’re more likely to find African drums, cheap socks, or second hand computer hardware than a copy of the Gutenberg Bible. You can browse the antiques stalls on the search for vintage clothes, old cameras, furniture or just a brilliant photograph; the definition of ‘antique’ ranges from Louis Seize furniture to old fountain pens, lava lamps, and antique brewing equipment.
Go early, and have breakfast at the Brasserie Paul Bert (in Rue Paul Bert). A couple or croissants and a big cup of hot chocolate should set you up for the day. Or visit later for a superb steack-frites - and try to work out why the French always want to spell ‘steak’ with a ‘c’ in it.
