Nantes will be hosting a number of matches in the Rugby World Cup this autumn. But besides the matches there's a lot to see in this fine city- certainly more than enough.
In the early Middle Ages, France hadn't become the huge country it is today. The French kingdom was restricted to the area around Paris; Burgundy, Brittany and much of the south remained independent. Up till the end of the fifteenth century, Nantes was the capital of the Duchy of Brittany.
The city’s cobbled streets, half timbered houses and fine castle go back to the Middle Ages. Anne of Brittany, duchess of Brittany and Queen of France, created the fine late Gothic rooms of the castle, as well as commissioning a splendid tomb for her father, the last duke. And though her marriage spelt the end of Breton independence, she made sure her heart was buried here in the her father’s tomb, a tender masterpiece of late Gothic style, and the pride of the cathedral. Both the castle and cathedral are open for visits.
Later, in the eighteenth century, Nantes became a rich trading port. Its situation on the Loire, just 50 km from the Atlantic coast, gave it access to a rich hinterland, and it handled much of the commerce of the French colonies. The wealthy merchants built superb classical mansions for themselves on the Ile Feydeau, in lovely white stone. While this classical architecture is usually associated with royal chateaux and palaces like Versailles, the merchant houses of Nantes remind us that pretension to culture wasn't the exclusive preserve of the royal family.
The ‘mascarons’ that decorate the keystones on many of these mansions also show a seamier side of the past. Some of them are clearly negro faces, reminding us of the slave trade that also came through the port.
Even though Nantes itself isn't on the sea, it’s easy to take a trip to the coast. For instance half an hour on the train will get you to the coast at La Baule, a chic resort. If on the other hand it’s wilderness you’re after, rent a bike for the 7 km trip to Guerande, a medieval walled town in the middle of the salt marshes. There’s a ‘voie verte’ cycle route almost all the way; alternatively you can take the bus. Sea salt is still produced here – and the ‘sel de Guerande’ is considered the best in France.
Nantes has a wealth of excellent cuisine to savour. Fish and seafood are strong features of the local restaurant scene, but for a true Breton experience you’ll want to go for crepes (pancakes). Those made with sarrasin (buckwheat) are a particular speciality, the cereal giving the crepe a more savoury flavour and heavier texture that goes well with egg, ham and cheese topping.
