Montmartre Paris Simple Tourist Walk
Easy Walking Tour of Bohemian Montmartre Artist Quarter
Apr 2, 2009
Montmartre, in the 18th Arrondissement, is one of the most famous and distinctive districts of Paris. It came to prominence in the late 19th and early 20th Century as the bohemian hangout of many famous writers and artists, including Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Renoir. The following walking route is relatively easy and takes in some representative streets and the most interesting sights.
Starting Point of Montmartre Walking Tour
Take the Metro to Blanche station or, to add a little of the seamier venues, take the Metro to Pigalle and walk up Boulevard de Clichy to Blanche past the sex shops and peep and strip shows. The time to start the walk is about an hour before sundown, allowing time to get to see the sunset over Paris from Butte de Montmartre (the hill on which Sacre Coeur stands), to have an early dinner in the area and then return to take photos of the neon-clad windmill of Moulin Rouge.
Moulin Rouge
As the walker emerges from Blanche Metro, the famous Moulin Rouge night club, famous for introducing the ‘daring’ Can Can, is diagonally opposite. There are great photo opportunities at night from the pedestrian island in the broad boulevard. Nearby is the Museum of Eroticism, which displays as historical artifacts many of the items that are on sale and on open display in the sex shop windows.
Rue Lepic and the Café de Deux Moulins
From the Blanche Metro exit in Boulevard de Clichy, the street leading off at right angles is clearly signed Rue Lepic. Walk up Rue Lepic. There are some excellent traditional charcuteries with outdoor displays. At Number 15, on the corner of Rue Cauchois, is the Café des Deux Moulins, which aficionados of the 2002 French movie Amelie will recognize as the shop in which Amelie worked. When the author visited in March 2009, the shop was closed for renovations but the builders kindly permitted a photo of the interior, which naturally featured a film poster from the movie.
Rue de Abbesses
At the T-Junction at the top of Rue Lepic, turn right into Rue de Abesses. This is a lively street full of small cafes and restaurants. Earmark the tiny corner bar/restaurant Bruant for a meal after a tour of the heights. Try the Soupe de l’ Oignon (French onion soup covered in cheese), and one of the Moule et Frites varieties on offer (mussels and French Fries). Watch for Rue Ravignan leading off up the hill on the left on the approach to Place des Abesses. This leads to Place Emile Goudeau and approaches Sacre Coeur from behind. Take Rue Ravignon.
Rue des Trois Freres
Rue des Trois Freres crosses Rue Ravignon shortly before it enters the small square. Turn left into Rue des Trois Freres and walk a few paces to the next corner, where there is a beautiful fruit and vegetable shop with its awning and colourful outdoor display. This is Au Marche de la Butte (The market on the hill) which is the grocer featured in the movie Amelie. Return to Rue Ravignon and continue into the Place Emile Goudeau, where Picasso once lived at Number 13.
Place du Tertre
Exit Place Emile Goudeau , swinging right and follow signs pointing to Place du Tertre. The Place du Tertre was once the centre of bohemian life but is now given over to souvenir shops, commercial’outdoor’ artists and instant portraitists. Nevertheless, it is still good fun and a great place to have a drink at an outdoor café, people watch, or sample a restaurant.
Sacre Coeur
Sacre Coeur peeks prettily over the roofs at the rear off Place du Tertre, so directions are hardly necessary to find it. Follow around the side of the church until the stunning sweep out over the hazy city comes into view. This is a nice approach to Montmartre, as the walker doesn’t realize the elevation until suddenly there the city is, sprawled out below. And above, the soaring white domes of Sacre Coeur.
The Stairs and Funicular
Drop down the stairs which are almost always occupied by buskers and onto Rue Lamarck, where the funicular is available to go down the face of Montmartre. However, beside the funicular is the delightful tree-lined stone stairs that feature in so many paintings and postcards. From here, it’s a simple matter to follow the slope down till it strikes the major cross street Boulevard de Rochechouart, where the walker can rejoin the metro system at Anvers station.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
