Sightseeing in Lyon, France's Second City
Roman and Renaissance Buildings and Traditional Lyonnaise Cooking
Jul 14, 2009
The Saone and Rhone rivers which run parallel through the centre of Lyon create a narrow peninsula overlooked by two hills, the Fourviere and the Croix Rousse. Long promenades beside the rivers lead through gardens with waterside restaurants and cafes.
Vieux Lyon Squeezed Beside the Saone and Fourviere Hillside
One of the oldest districts is Vieux Lyon which is squeezed beside the Saone and the Fourviere hillside. It is famous as the best preserved Renaissance area in France, thanks to its well-kept mansions, most with mullioned windows and intricate stone balconies.
St-Jean Cathedral has several fine rose windows and a 600-year old anatomical clock which ‘performs’ each day at 2, 3 and 4 pm. Nearby, the tiny model buildings and scenes, some old, some modern, in the Miniatures Museum are as fascinating for adults as children.
Traditional Lyonaise Cooking at ‘Bouchons’
Vieux Lyon is a popular area for dining-out as many of the ground floors of its Renaissance buildings are occupied by sociable bars and restaurants which spill out onto the narrow streets. Some of them are officially listed as ‘bouchons‘, inns which feature traditional Lyonnsaise cooking such as hearty local dishes like plump pork sausages (andouillettes), pigs’ trotters and potatoes baked in creamy sauce, which are all best washed down with a bottle of Beaujolais from one of the surrounding vineyards.
Fourviere Hillside with the Notre Dame Basilica, Roman Amphitheatres and Gallo-Roman Museum
The flamboyant Notre Dame basilica, a gleaming white church at the top of the Fourviere hillside, is a landmark throughout the city. Inside, it is covered in wall-to-floor mosaics. To avoid the steep walk up, take the intriguing old funicular railway which leads to the basilica’s terrace where there are breathtaking views across the city and its two rivers.
Sited on the Fourviere hillside, the city’s Roman district, are the remains of two ancient amphitheatres. One of these could hold 10,000 people. The Gallo-Roman Museum displays models of them together with objects excavated in the area.
From Croix Rousse to Rue Merciere Where You Can Enjoy a Meal at Any Time of Day
Lyon’s other hill, Croix Rousse, is an area of narrow streets and steep passageways with bars and quirky shops. Now the centre of the city’s nightlife, it was the heart of the area’s prosperous silk-weaving industry in the 19th century.
Below it, rue Merciere in the city centre is the place enjoy a meal at any time of day. It is completely devoted to restaurants, ranging from fine dining to informal bistros. The city’s smartest shops are nearby in rue Gasparin, although the main shopping street, the pedestrianised rue de la Republique with department stores, is a block away. Places to stay in the city centre include the 200-year old Globe et Cecil Hotel which is furnished with antiques and handily placed just off the huge main square, Place Bellecour.
Getting Around Lyon Including the Institut Lumiere Cinema Museum in the Rue du Premier Film
Trams, buses and a smart underground ‘metro’ make getting around Lyon easy. In addition ‘bike stations’ are conveniently dotted around the centre, enabling anyone to pick up a bike at one point and drop it off at another.
A place worth travelling to on the east side of the city is the Institut Lumiere Cinema Museum. Located in the appropriately-named rue du Premier Film, it occupies the grand family home of Louis Lumiere who in 1895 invented ‘moving pictures’. His very first film, just 41 seconds long, showed workers coming out of his factory. This and other historic footage can be seen in the museum.
Altogether Lyon is certainly a city that should be explored at leisure, lingering at the unexpected discoveries to be found while making one’s way between its remarkable sights. And of course plenty of time needs to be allowed to enjoy its many gourmet delights.
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