Hidden Museums in Paris, off the Beaten Track

Carnavalet History of Paris, Art in Montparnasse, Rodin Sculptures

Jul 8, 2009

Paris is a true city of culture with many a fascinating museum waiting to be discovered beyond the crowded venues.

From the Louvre to Orsay or the Orangerie, Paris cultural hot spots draw crowds whatever the season but there are dozens of museums off the beaten track, equally interesting but often overlooked.

Wine, fans, post office, cinema, fairground and many more, there is something for everyone with time and space to browse at leisure. Some are tucked in the suburbs, others are just steps away from the tourists haunts. Many are housed in stylish renovated mansions and it’s worth stopping for a moment to enjoy the architecture before delving into the past.

For those in the know, Paris best hidden museums include Musée Carnavalet, Musée du Montparnasse and Musée Rodin.

In the historical Marais district, the Musée Carnavalet is set in two elegant houses dating back to the 17th-18th centuries and linked by a formal garden. The museum is rarely busy but has lots of exhibits covering the history of Paris from Roman to modern times. Carnavalet is considered the most Parisian of all the museums.

Here rambling rooms are filled with memorabilia in permanent and temporary exhibitions. The former can be viewed free of charge. Furniture, tapestries, models, pictures of old Paris, portraits of illustrious Parisians, paintings, items of daily life, a whole afternoon is barely enough to see it all. Most stirring are the French Revolution exhibits, including the small spinning wheel kept by Marie-Antoinette in jail.

Paris off the Beaten Track, Musée du Montparnasse, Artistic Heritage

The Musée du Montparnasse, avenue du Maine, was opened in 1998 in the former studio of Marie Vassilieff. The Russian painter welcomed artists from far and wide, among them Modigliani, Soutine and Picasso, and set up a canteen where those who struggled could have a cheap meal. Here a banquet was held to celebrate Braque’s return from World War I.

This small museum highlights Montparnasse artistic heritage from the early 20th century to this day. There are posters and photographs and temporary exhibitions, often by contemporary artists.

Hidden in an old cobbled lane, still surrounded by studios, the Musée du Montparnasse offers a nostalgic vision of a golden age close to the heart of Paris.

The Rodin Museum is located rue de Varennes, near the Invalides yet ignored by many visitors. It’s set in Hotel Biron, a grand 18th century mansion in three hectares of grounds. Together with its counterpart in Meudon on the outskirts of Paris, Musée Rodin claims over 6000 works by one of the top French sculptors in modern times.

Rodin is best known for sculptures but the museum demonstrates the artist's versatility. There are paintings and engravings, sketches such as Beauty or Tempest, and his personal art collection. Among the most famous sculptures exhibited in the house and garden are the Gates of Hell, the Kiss and the Thinker.

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