Hidden France, the Cévennes off the Beaten Track
National Park & Quiet Trails in the Massif Central, Food & Wine
Jul 8, 2009
From the lower hills to Mont Lozère, the Cévennes National Park spreads across mountains and valleys in a hidden corner of France, well off the beaten track.
There are dark forests of conifer and beech, chestnut groves, limestone plateaux, high pastures and moors strewn with heather and broom. It’s a place to ramble along the quiet trails of the Massif Central, discover myriad flowers and birds and enjoy the traditional food and wine of hardy mountain folk.
Hidden France, Cévennes National Park
Covering over 3000 km² on the south eastern edge of the Massif Central, the Cévennes National Park claims around 2000 species of plants, including rare orchids, lilies and the carnivorous drosera. The park is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve where in recent decades, the fauna has made a spectacular come back with 208 species of birds, among them eagle owls and griffon vultures, and 45 kinds of mammals.
The Cévennes National Park does not exclude humans and there are traditional villages where those who left in search of a better life are now returning to manage the forest or herd cattle and sheep. Ancient standing stones and medieval ruins bear witness to the past.
Separate eco-museums are devoted to Mont Lozère, the Causses plateau and the lush Vallée Française.
France off the Beaten Track, Quiet Trails in Massif Central
Myriad mountain trails meander through the Cévennes. Some follow old irrigation channels, others shepherds’ tracks heading for summer pastures or the pilgrims’ route to St Gilles du Gard. Most popular is the Chemin de Stevenson, in the footsteps of the 19th century Scottish writer who walked across the Cévennes with a donkey. Mont Lozère, the highest point, rises to 1699 metres above a windswept heath with spectacular views.
There are trails for trekkers, horse riders and mountain bikes. In winter, snow permitting, visitors can ski around the small resorts of Bleymard and Mas de la Barque.
Food and Wine in the Cévennes
In these traditional heartlands of rural France, food is tasty, satisfying and mostly home grown. Once part of the staple diet, chestnuts are still widely used in soups, pâté, bread, jam, liqueur and more. Honey, sweet onions and wild mushrooms gathered in autumn are popular. The local Pélardon goat’s cheese comes in three varieties, fresh and creamy, semi-hard with a nutty flavour, or hard.
The southern slopes of the Cévennes have warm and sunny summers and with crickets all around, almost feel Mediterranean. Olive trees yield a variety of fruit, flavouring many dishes, and vineyards grow in the foothills. Favourite wines are rosé, such as the fruity Pays des Cévennes, the full bodied Syrah and the Vins du Gard.
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