Now unreachable by train, buses take travelers from cities such as Laval, Rennes, and St. Malo to the hilly town of Fougères (Fern, in English). A panoramic view of the castle and stone houses, flowers spilling out of their crevices, leave a first time visitor breathless. Evidence of famous writer, Victor Hugo's own inspiration found here are displayed in quotes throughout the city.
The Discovery Trail of Fougères
The brown signs marked Circuit Découverte de la Ville are posted throughout Fougères, guiding visitors around the impressive castle moat, through the traditional stone and timbered house neighborhoods, along the river Nançon, and through the parks, green from regional rain.
The trail is one of the best ways to see the city, winding through shop lined streets, the Saturday morning market on rue Nationale, peaceful gardens, and historical castle gates. There's no particular place to start or finish as the trail is circular.
The Fougères Castle
The largest medieval castle in Europe, the Fougères castle is suprisingly complete in its current state. Its earliest construction began at the end of the 10th century, however after enduring many attacks, the castle has been rebuilt many times. Today, it most resembles how it appeared during the 15th century. A close-up view from outside the castle can be found on the nearby ruined rampart walls.
The castle's strong fortifications were built to defend the border of Brittany (Bretagne) and are evident just by taking a walk on the discovery trail. The Nançon River acts as a moat around the castle.The thirteen towers that sprout up from the stone walls were not all constructed at the same time, appearing as a hodge podge of designs across an architectural timeline. Guided tours are available.
Public Garden of Fougères
Perhaps one of the best places to take in the enormity of the castle of Fougères and its diverse tower scheme is from the hillside Public Garden near the Place de L’Hôtel de Ville and the Church of St. Leonard. Stepping into the green space with a sudden view of the castle walls is like a trip back in time.
A gazebo and hidden waterfalls trickling through a collection of international flora provide an ideal setting for admiring not only the castle, but the unique houses nestled around it. A early morning visit guarantees some peace, as locals are market bound and tourists not yet risen.
Traditional Houses of Fougères
From the Public Garden, stairs lead visitors down the slopes of botanical forest to a quaint neighborhood of old, traditional homes, and over a stream where women used to wash clothes in wells. Informational signs and discovery trail indicators continue to point walkers in the right direction, however there is certainly nothing wrong with straying from the path.
Many homes in the old part of town are built from the basic materials of stone or wood, characteristic of the Brittany region. The half-timbered houses generally fatten out on top because in the past, those living higher up had lower taxes. More people wanting a better deal meant more space needed.
Other Sights and Activities in Fougères
On rue Nationale, visitors can stop into Museum Villéon, a collection of paintings by Emmanuel de la Villéon, for free and located in one of the few timbered houses that survived the blazes of a fire. A clock museum (Horlogerie) is nearby.
For the more athletically inclined, hiking opportunities can be found in the diverse landscape surrounding Fougères.
Fougères may not be a must-see French town on many travelers' lists, however it's perfect for those who want the chance to escape backwards in time to medieval France.
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