Day One of the Tour du Mont Blanc
Summer Hiking in France from Les Houches to Les Contamines
Aug 5, 2009
The first day of the Tour du Mont Blanc is a test of will and an opportunity to see whether you’ve got the right stuff to finish the circuit of 15,770-foot Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe. It is also when you will find out that your pack is too heavy, your boots rub blisters on your heels, and you didn’t train hard enough.
The TMB starts at the charming town of Les Houches, which has ample hotel and hostel space, although many hikers prefer to stay in Chamonix hotels.
Essentials about Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc
- The trail is easy to follow and well-marked, either with signage in populated areas or yellow paint “TMB” stencils, usually on rocks, in wilderness areas.
- Much of the trail is above tree line, so be sure to bring hats and sunscreen as well as rain gear.
- Check the weather every morning and consider staying put if strong storms are predicted.
- If you’re on your own, consider trailing groups with guides over snow pack, where the trail is sometimes hard to follow.
The “Easy” Stage One of the TMB
This stage is 16 km (10 miles) and takes an estimated five to five and half hours, according to Kev Reynolds’ Tour of Mont Blanc (Cicerone, 1997) and begins just past the cable car station on the main road in Les Houches.
The trail winds upward over a paved road to the small town of Col de Voza and then through a series of small hamlets, on and off paved roads with only a few stiff upward climbs. Nevertheless, for a first day is a long, hard walk.
The High TMB Route from Les Houches to Les Contamines
The haute route for this first day on the TMB is an estimated 18 km (11 miles) and has a total elevation gain of nearly 1500 meters (5,000 feet) and loss of 1300 meters (4350 feet), according to Reynolds.
About 2500 feet of elevation and a two hours can be cut off by taking the cable car from Les Hoches to Bellevue, where an abandoned hotel commands a spectacular view of the Charmonix valley. Purists can make the two-hour climb up to Bellevue up the road and trail that begins just past the cable car station in Les Houches.
From Bellevue the trail crosses over a glacial river on a suspension bridge and then rises over Col de Tricot before descending in stages to Chalets de Miage, where the private Rufuge de Miage is a place hikers can stay for the night instead of continuing another two hours or so to Les Contamines.
Les Contamines Hotels and Restaurants
The most popular hiker (randonneur) hotels are the Hotel Grizzli and Hotel Christiana both along Rue de Notre Dame de la Gorge, the main street. Inexpensive restaurants featuring local Savoyard dishes are also along the main street as well as groceries, pharmacies and outfitters.
Take the time to fill gaps in your supplies here because there’s no further opportunity for at least two more days, until you reach Courmayeur in Italy.
Day Two is another challenging one with 10 miles and nearly 4800 feet of elevation gain, followed by Day Three and the Col de la Signe into Italy. This is one day where it is essential to call ahead for reservations, whether you stop at the Refuge du Bonhomme or continue to the Auberge de la Nova in Les Chapieux.
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