The Mighty Dordogne River runs from the Auvergne across half of France to Bordeaux but the region commonly referred to as 'The Dordogne' is actually Perigord, which starts south of Limoges and encompasses the rivers valleys of the Vezere, the Dordogone and the Lot. It is a popular region and a magnet for tourists, but you can get away from the dusty roads and summer traffic by travelling in style down the river itself. Many stretches of the river are great for canoeing and pleasure boating, but the stretch east of St Cyprien, where the river is wide and shallow, lends itself perfectly to gentle canoeing. Here the river forms great loops between wooded hills and craggy outcrops and the 12 km stretch between Cénac and Beynac is particularly charming and interesting, with the banks lined with small villages and sites of historic interest.
Cenac to Beynac
The journey downstream to Beynac takes about 2hrs non stop but allow a good half a day to really enjoy the trip. It would be a shame to miss stopping off at one of the many swimming beaches, bankside cafes or villages along the way.
The river is wide and safe with a steady gentle flow so paddling requires little in the way of effort, which means you can really relax and enjoy the stunning scenery - woodland gorges and rocky outcrops, ancient chateaus and honey coloured villages. One of the highlights about halfway down the river stretch is La Roque Gageac (One of the prettiest villages in France) with its charming ochre coloured houses and the towering rocky cliff behind dotted with troglodyte dwellings and caves. Because it is often busy and road clogged in summer-time being able to view the village from the river is particularly appealing, so take time to stop off at one of the small shingle islands here, where the water is clear and warm - perfect for swimming - and the river beaches are ideal for picnics or snoozing in the shade.
Practical Info
Canoes can be hired from many spots along the river but one of the best is the CPL site at Cénac bridge.(05 53 29 99 69) There is plenty of shady parking and numerous canoes or kayaks available. 2008 Hire costs around 13euros per adult (less for a child under 10) life jackets and a return to the departure point. A small extra charge is made for a plastic portable valuables box. You can choose between a 2,3 or 4 person canoes or a single or double kayak.
The river in summer is shallow and therefore slow flowing so no experience is required, although you do have to be able to swim and at the end of the journey (12km or 25km) there a is a free bus to take you back up the river to your departure point.
Hire is available daily in July and August and at weekends or by request from May to September.
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