Exploring Burgundy's Vineyards and Canals
Say "Burgundy" and everyone's thoughts turn to wine.
May 20, 2009
In Burgundy, vineyards with names like Chablis, Beaune, Beaujolais, Nuits St George. cover the gentle hills that run all the way down its eastern side, as well as around Auxerre, Burgundy's capital city in the west. Not only are the wines themselves very individual but the ‘domaines’ vary a great deal too.
Domaine Berson & Fils and Laroche at Chablis
For example In the little village of Bris-le-Vineux, tastings at the small family-owned Domaine Berson & Fils include a tour of the 12th-century cellars where dusty rows of bottles produced over 100 years ago by the grandfather of the present owner, Jean-Christophe Berson, can be seen, though they are definitely much too precious to be sampled!
By contrast Laroche, in the ancient town of Chablis, is a worldwide wine business with a glossy new Tasting Room near its ancient cellars. Beside it in a cleverly-converted 18th century grain mill, there is also a wine bar, gourmet restaurant and an exclusive 5-bedroom boutique hotel.
Eating Out in Burgundy
Throughout Burgundy, fine dining can invariably be found alongside fine drinking. Menus often feature local specialities like Bresse chicken (the only bird to have ‘Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée’ status like a wine) and Boeuf Bourguignon, beef stewed in rich red wine from the endearing white Charolais cattle that you see everywhere grazing on the rolling green pastures.
Look out too for hot garlic snails and fish from Burgundy’s many rivers,
Walking and Cycling on Voies Vertes in Burgundy
The Burgundy area is also at the centre of France’s canal network. This provides scenic opportunities for walking and cycling as well as boating because the towpaths are part of a Burgundy-wide network of green tracks called ‘Voies Vertes’.
A highlight on the Nivernais canal, built 200 years ago to link the Loire and Saone rivers, is a 2-hour excursion aboard a solar-powered boat along the ‘Voute de la Collancelle’, a series of three tunnels cut through hills at the canal’s highest point.
Canalling in Burgundy
Cruisers can also be hired from the Aqua Fluvial base there. Over a weekend it is possible to sail as far as Clamecy and back, experiencing interesting features like the Sardy staircase of 14 locks and a lift bridge at Saint-Didier.
Voie Vertes Routes in Burgundy
One of the ‘voie vertes’ routes passes through Cluny whose famous Benedictine Abbey, founded in 910, was for 300 years Europe’s largest and richest. Its vast church is now a forlorn but impressive ruin as much of the pink-tinged stone was stolen after the monks were turned out during the French Revolution. Local people used it to build houses which can still be seen around this attractive little town.
As bikes can be hired in Cluny and dropped off elsewhere, it is easy to organise a short cycle ride beside the River Grosne. At Cormartin a few miles away there is a splendid 17th-century castle surrounded by a moat and elaborate gardens. The interior is sumptuous, every room being exuberantly painted, carved and gilded with its original panelling, ceilings and fireplaces.
On the way, the small Berges de la Grosne inn makes an ideal port of call. It offers a set menu which includes a different local dish each day and, of course, a glass of wine.
Escapades Gourmandes
Cycling holidays of various lengths are organised by companies which also transport your luggage from hotel to hotel. Among them, Escapades Gourmandes, as the name suggests, guarantee plenty of good eating and drinking along the way. And that’s essentially what travelling around Burgundy is all about.
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