Alsatian History Told by its Towns

Alsace's Villages Tell Tales Through Their People and Places

Jan 10, 2009 Christina Rebuffet-Broadus

Some Alsatian villages hide messages about the region's history. By carefully observing the architecture and the people, visitors can glimpse into Alsace's past.

Alsace is no stranger to history. From ancient times when Romans planted the first vines to decisive world wars, the events of history have always had a profound impact on the region. Throughout many of its towns, this history can be read in the architecture as well as in the people that live here. Three towns in particular stand out in the mosaic of Alsatian history, discreetly telling their tales to those who know how to read them.

Kientzheim

Just above the Porte Basse of this medieval district, just two shots away from Kayserberg, the Lallakenig sticks out his tongue. And why wouldn’t he? After all, his title does proclaim him king of the tongue sticker outters. Perched above an arrow slit, he teases today’s tourists with his grotesque iron tongue. Six centuries ago, he pulled the same grimace at the city’s assailants, kept at bay by the encircling ramparts.

After such a dubious welcome, Kientzheim is there for the taking, with its ancient vintners' homes, story book squares and fountains, and chapels of Saint Felix and Saint Regula which opened their doors to pilgrims in ages past. Since 1563, the Schwendi chateau has also charmed passers by. Today, the brotherhood of Saint Etienne holds the keys to the chateau, and thus to the vineyard museum that it houses.

Turckheim

Each night at 10:00 p.m., the night guard, carrying lantern, horn, and halberd, crisscrosses the village, warning its citizens to “watch over the fire and over the light" and Turckheim can sleep in peace.

At the entrance of the Fecht valley, most known for its Munster cheese, Medieval ramparts squeeze the tiny triangular village. Only three doors pierce the village walls, but they were enough for the forces of Viscount Turenne to parade through after the French victory in 1675. And not just any victory! After the Imperial forces admitted defeat by France, German Alsatians suddenly became French Alsatians.

With its cobblestone streets, bold facades, sculpted lintels, and Renaissance oriels, Turckheim boasts all of Alsace's characteristic charm. But this restful village plays coquette behind its old walls. Only the bell tower of Saint Anne's church spires above, capped with the symbol of the wine makers—a small golden barrel. Below, the night guard tucks in while above, storks keep watch from their nests above the porte de France. And the fountain in front of the hotel de ville reminds visitors of the life's essentials: "Passerby, from our vintages, make your choice, stop and drink!"

Hunspach

Hunspach is the most typical of the the Outre-Foret villages. The region spreads from the Haguenau forest all the way to the German border. A pure rural village, the white Tudor style houses hold fast to time beneath their red tile roofs. Flower boxes overflow from the shuttered windows. At the heart of the traditional houses, a courtyard opens to cellars and galleries where old farming tools rust alongside shiny John Deere tractors. Last year's logs and freshly cropped hay dry out, silently waiting for Winter's chill. And beneath an arbor of vines, benches beckon to passing friends to pause and have a drink 'à la fraîche."

Come Sunday in Hunspach, people old enough to remember being German slip into traditional costumes and make their way to the church crowned by a rose colored bell tower. High above, slate arrows overlook an intimate square lined with birch trees. The signs naming streets and passageways remind visitors of the village's rural history; every farm animal has its own street. Here and there, a few old balancing wells survive along with a few highly valued houses. Their famous domed windows protrude like a French countryman's belly, perhaps witness to the region's fondness for hearty meals.

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The church in Hunspach