A Hidden French Gem – Allauch, Provence
A Taste of Old-World France in the Village of Allauch near Marseille
While many people may be familiar with the hustle and bustle of lively Mediterranean Marseille, or the quaint lavender fields of Provence, it is less likely they know about Allauch, a lively combination of the two.
Where and What is Allauch?
Allauch is a small village with a population of around 19,000, situated in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of France. It is around 12km east of Marseille and accessible by public transport (local bus). At 800 feet above sea level, Allauch is nestled on a hill overlooking Marseille, the Mediterranean Sea and the Iles (islands) du Frioul (including the Château d'If, where the Count of Monte Cristo was set). Allauch is in the centre of the mountain range made up of the Etoile, Garlaban and St Cyr. The caves in this mountainous area have been inhabited since the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras.
Why Visit Allauch?
Allauch offers visitors a taste of the "real" villages of France, without tourist crowds. It has a small but authentic selection of food and shops and a lively calendar of events, including concerts, exhibitions and traditional seasonal celebrations throughout the year. Allauch offers visitors an insight into the history, culture and traditions of Provence. In addition it enjoys the sunny Mediterranean climate.
What is There to do in Allauch?
Things to do include -
- have a meal in one of the small restaurants dotted along the main street - enjoy set menus offering two or three courses of French food and wine;
- sit outside in the main square sipping coffee by the fountain;
- visit the tourist office on the Esplanade des Moulins - while there checking out the ruins of five windmills;
- hike the surrounding thyme and rosemary scented hills made famous by the writer and film-maker Marcel Pagnol;
- read a book on a bench taking in views of the Mediterranean;
- visit the Brémond family's tea room which has been in Allauch since 1938. Here visitors can enjoy home-made ice-cream and taste and buy local specialties like nougat and honey sweets. The tea room and shop is adorned with traditional Provencal prints and costumes and a traditional "library" with comfortable couches to relax on at the back of the room;
- get lost wandering the back streets and enjoying the narrow and winding French alleyways, the colourful flowerpots and the washing blowing in the breeze;
- make the steep but rewarding climb, amongst the cacti, stony paths and ancient castle ruins, to the church of Notre Dame du Château (first built in 1148), to enjoy stunning views of Marseille, Allauch and the colourful mosaic roof of the Church Saint Sébastien;
- visit the gallery of the Vieux Bassin for paintings, photos and exhibitions. Around Christmas see a display of Provencal "santons" - traditional small clay figures painted to show the typical professions of the past and of Provencal folklore;
- take part in seasonal celebrations such as the music festival in June, the food and wine fair in November, or "donkey day" in December - donkey-pulled carts and men, women and children dressed in traditional Provencal costume;
- visit the Christmas market to find a colourful range of hand-made gifts, crafts and food;
- wander, absorb and enjoy!
Sunny Marseille viewed from Allauch in Provence
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